Sunday, January 9, 2011

Day 6 - Jerusalem (23rd Dec 10)



"Jerusalem -  "Abode of Peace";"The Holy Sanctuary", is the capital of Israel, though not internationally recognized as such. 

Jerusalem is a holy city to the three major Abrahamic religionsJudaismChristianity and Islam. In Judaism, Jerusalem has been the holiest city since, according to the Torah, King David of Israel first established it as the capital of the united Kingdom of Israel in c. 1000 BCE, and his son Solomon commissioned the building of the First Temple in the city.[5] In Christianity, Jerusalem has been a holy city since, according to the New TestamentJesus was crucified in c. 30 CE and 300 years later Saint Helena found the True Cross in the city. In Sunni Islam, Jerusalem is the third-holiest city.[6][7] It became the first Qibla, the focal point for Muslim prayer (Salah) in 610 CE,[8] and, according to Islamic tradition, Muhammad made his Night Journey there ten years later.[9][10] As a result, and despite having an area of only 0.9 square kilometres (0.35 sq mi),[11] the Old City is home to sites of key religious importance, among them theTemple Mount, the Western Wall, the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, the Dome of the Rock and al-Aqsa Mosque.

During its long history, Jerusalem has been destroyed twice, besieged 23 times, attacked 52 times, and captured and recaptured 44 times.[12] The oldest part of the city was settled in the 4th millennium BCE, making Jerusalem one of the oldest cities in the world.[13]"


Alley in the Old City


To the Western Wall, as known as Wailing Wall.





"The Western WallWailing Wall or Kotel is located in the Old City of Jerusalem at the foot of the western side of the Temple Mount. It is a remnant of the ancient wall that surrounded the Jewish Temple's courtyard and is one of the most sacred sites in Judaism outside of the Temple Mount itself.

According to the TanakhSolomon's Temple was built atop the Temple Mount in the 10th century BCE and destroyed by the Babyloniansin 586 BCE. The Second Temple was completed and dedicated in around 19 BCE Herod the Great began a massive expansion project on the Temple Mount. He artificially expanded the area which resulted in an enlarged platform. Today's Western Wall formed part of the retaining perimeter wall of this platform. Herod's Temple was destroyed by the Roman Empire, along with the rest of Jerusalem, in 70 CE during the First Jewish-Roman War."


Religious Reading @ the wall.


The Wailing Wall


Met an old Jewish gentlemen (originally from Canada) who was very friendly explaining the things to me. I was surprised to know that his family adhere to strict Orthodox Jewish Customs which includes no watching of TV, surfing Internet, or reading newspaper or anything that is considered a waste of time from a Judaism perspective.


"Haredi poskim (authorities in Jewish law) generally forbid television and films, reading secular newspapers and using the Internet for non-business purposes. They feel that mobile phones should be programmed to disable internet and other functions that could influence their users in undesired ways, and most companies in Israel now offer basic cell phones with limited capabilities to accommodate Haredim.[10][11] However, it appears that many Haredi people use the Internet, as evidenced by the large number of participants in "Haredi chat rooms".

Another important stricture is the prohibition of publishing/viewing photographs of women; the newspaper Yated Ne'eman in April 2009 digitally altered photographs of the newly installed Israeli cabinet to replace two female ministers with pictures of men, while another newspaper blacked the women out of their published photograph."



Wearing Kippah for the first time.


Jews @ the Wailing Wall


B&W




So this is how they look when they removed the hat!


View of the Wall from a higher position




"The Temple Mount, also known in the bible as Mount Zion or Mount Moriah and by Muslims as the Noble Sanctuary (Bait-ul-Muqaddas), is a religious site in the Old City of Jerusalem.

Judaism regards the Temple Mount as the place where God chose the Divine Presence to rest; it was from here the world expanded into its present form and where God gathered the dust used to create the first man, Adam.

Among Sunni Muslims, the Mount is widely considered to be the third holiest site in Islam . Revered as the Noble Sanctuary(Bait-ul-Muqaddas) and the location of Muhammad's journey to Jerusalem and ascent to heaven, the site is also associated with Jewish biblical prophets who are also venerated in Islam. After the Muslim conquest of Jerusalem in 637 CE, Umayyad Caliphs commissioned the construction of the al-Aqsa Mosque and Dome of the Rock on the site.[1] The Dome was completed in 692 CE, making it one of the oldest extant Islamic structures in the world, after the Kaabah."

A Mosque inside Temple Mount

The interesting thing is that the security forces are the Israeli forces, but Temple Mount belongs to the Jordanian Authorities. Not sure what is the historical legacy.




"The Dome of the Rock is an important Islamic shrine and Jerusalem landmark located on the Temple Mount in the Old City of Jerusalem. The structure, the oldest extant example of early Islamic architecture, was completed in 691 CE at the order of Arabian Umayyad Caliph, Abd al-Malik. The site's significance stems from religious traditions regarding the rock, known as the Foundation Stone, at its heart.

According to Sunni Islamic tradition, the rock is the spot from which Muhammad ascended to Heavenaccompanied by the angel Gabriel. Further, Muhammad was taken here by Gabriel to pray with Abraham,Moses, and Jesus. An important distinction is that this is to Islam what the Transfiguration of Jesus is toChristians, a fulfillment of scripture. After Muhammad's return, he called all that would believe him to join with him and be Muslim. It was at this juncture that Islam came into existence.

The Foundation Stone is the holiest site in Judaism. Just as Muslims pray towards the Kaaba at Mecca, the holiest site in Islam, Jews pray towards the Foundation Stone. Jews have traditionally regarded the location of the stone as the holiest spot on Earth, the site of the Holy of Holies during the Temple Period.

The most propitious site for Jewish prayer is the spot that is nearest the Foundation Stone. Because Muslim authorities refused to permit Jewish prayer on the Temple Mount, the custom developed of praying near theWestern Wall, since it was the site nearest to the Foundation Stone, or on the Mount of Olives facing the site of the Temple."



\
Stunningly Beautiful - Dome of the Rock





As a non-muslim, I am not allowed to visit the other two holy sites (Mecca and Medina in Saudi Arabia), so I am quite happy that I visited the 3rd Holiest site for Muslim.

A guide approached us to render his service and told us that if his service is no good, we do need to pay him. Well, we were quite upset and dissatisfied with his unprofessional service, but we still paid him. His command of english was bad, his historical knowledge was average, he was quite boring and the worst of all, he was trying to evangelize Islam to us. That was so unprofessional. May be he should pay us money for listening to him evangelizing his faith.

I forgot the exact word, but he was saying that Koran is best book in the world and we should read it, and if we do not follow Prophet Mohammed (since we already heard about the Prophet), we are all going to hell. Well, I decided to ask him about this:

"What would happen to the indigenous people living in the Islands of Pacific Ocean who are not exposed to Islam? Are they all going to Hell?"

He did not reply me, and wanted to avoid answering. And I asked him again.

His reply "I am not a religious scholar. Please do not ask me this kind of question."

My reaction was -...-"




On a happier note, we met our fellow Singaporeans who were stuck at the Israeli border.
=)



Within Temple Mount


Happy Muslim Students on excursion to Temple Mount



OLD CITY


The best Falafel Pita of the trip. It is cheap!
(Bought at the Muslim Quarter in the Old City - 7 Israeli Shekels =  US$2 = S$2.60)


Armenian Quarter


One of the buildings in Temple Mount


View of the Wailing Wall, Temple Mount & Dome of the Rock





"The Church of the Holy Sepulchre, also called the Church of the Resurrection by Eastern Christians, is a church within the walled Old City of Jerusalem

The site is venerated as Golgotha,[1] (the Hill of Calvary), where Jesus was crucified,[2] and is said to also contain the place where Jesus was buried (the sepulchre). The church has been an important Christian pilgrimage destination since at least the 4th century, as the purported site of the resurrection of Jesus. "

Hordes of Pilgrims getting into the Church


Jesus laid here before he was crucified.


Wall painting depicting the last few stations of the cross - the final hours of Jesus.


The spot where Jesus Christ was crucified - A Pilgrim was kneeling down to touch the marble slab to mark the exact spot of the cross.



It was an interesting experience to be in the holiest place (for Christians) where Christianity started and the symbol of Christianity (The Cross) started. This is the source.

Jesus Christ


Tomb of Jesus and the place that marks his ascension to Heaven. 





I like this picture!!! Hanging dirty linens and undergarments in the public. (In the Old City)


Bustling night in the alley of the Old City.


NIGHT IN JERUSALEM

Evening @ Ben Yehuda Street
Where is this street famous for?

"The Ben Yehuda Street bombings refer to a series of attacks by Palestinian terrorists and suicide bombers on civilians in downtown JerusalemIsrael from 1948 until today. The attacks were carried out on Ben Yehuda Street, a major thoroughfare, later a pedestrian mall, named for the founder of modern Hebrew, Eliezer Ben Yehuda."


Below is the "Concert" to support the building of settlement in East Jerusalem:


(Note: It takes quite a long time to load, but it is very interesting).
His view is too radical for my liking, as I do not know much about the historical conflicts, I shan't comment too much.

Excerpt from the Speech:
"Let our entire nation unite.
And speak clearly to the world and say
This is one land that the Creator of the world
Billionaires of non-Jews believe in the Bible
Open the Bible and you'll see
that this is the land that the Creator of the world
gave as an eternal gift to one nation.
The prime minister should turn to the president of the USA and say
Mr President your intention may be beautiful
But look into the Bible.
God gave/made this land to this nation
I love to give it to you or anybody else.
But I CAN'T
It is not mine to give away
This is God's gift to the Jewish people forever and ever."

What do you think?

Day 7 - Jerusalem, Bethlehem (24th Dec 10)

Street of Jerusalem


Kosher Diet
In the restaurant, there are 2 sections - Dairy and Meat Section.

"Kosher foods are those that conform to the regulations of the Jewish Halakhic law framework. One of the main biblical food laws forbids eating blood on account of the life [being] in the blood

Three times the Torah specifically forbids seething a young goat in its mother's milk (Exodus 23:19Exodus 34:26, and Deuteronomy 14:21). The Talmud interprets this as a general prohibition against cooking meat and dairy products together, and against eating such a mixture. To help prevent accidental violation of these rules, the modern standard Orthodox practice is to classify food into either being meatdairy, or neither; the latter category is more usually referred to as parve from the Yiddish word parev (פארעוו) (also spelled "pareve") meaning neutral."



Well, if you do not want to assume blood on the account of life being in the blood, what is the best way??
BE VEGETARIAN!!! That's the most compassionate way of living. =D




"Yad Vashem is Israel's official memorial to the Jewish victims of the Holocaust established in 1953 through the Yad Vashem Law passed by the Knesset, Israel's parliament. The origin of the name is from a Biblical verse: "And to them will I give in my house and within my walls a memorial and a name (Yad Vashem) that shall not be cut off"."

It is a very good museum that everyone should visit when you are in Jerusalem. It gave me a better perspective of the need to establish a new Israel nation after WWII. However, I still prefers the Holocaust Memorial Museum in Washington DC (My all-time favourite).


Took a photo of this gentlemen (even though no photography is allowed), as I was touched to tears when I read his great work to save the Jewish children. His compassion, courage and kindness is highly admirable.

When the kids from the Orphanage was sent to the Ghetto (Gas Chamber) to be exterminated: 

"The children were to have been taken away alone. He (Janusz Korezak) had the chance to save himself, and it was only with difficulty that he persuaded the Germans to take him too. He had spent long years of his life with children and now, on this last journey, he could not leave them alone. He wanted to ease things for them. He told the orphans they were going out in to the country, so they ought to be cheerful. At last they would be able to exchange the horrible suffocating city walls for meadows of flowers, streams where they could bathe, woods full of berries and mushrooms. He told them to wear their best clothes, and so they came out into the yard, two by two, nicely dressed and in a happy mood........Korczak was carrying two of the smallest infants, who were beaming too, and telling them some amusing story. I am sure that even in the gas chamber, as the Zyklon B gas was stifling childish throats and striking terror instead of hope into the orphans' hearts, the Old Doctor must have whispered with one last effort, ‘it's all right, children, it will be all right’. So that at least he could spare his little charges the fear of passing from life to death."


Pictures and Book (with names) of people who died in the tragic Holocaust.
They were not just some figures in historical books, they were unique Human Beings like you and I. They had dreams, fears, kinship etc... Yet, Life ended abruptly and tragically for them.

War is a living hell.
Hope this will never happen again in the entire human history.
May All Beings be free from sufferings.



"Jewish Shabbat (ShabbathShabbosShabbesShobos, etc.) is a weekly day of rest, observed from sundown on Friday until the appearance of three stars in the sky on Saturdaynight; it is also observed by a minority of Christians. Thirty-nine activities prohibited on Shabbat are listed in Tractate Shabbat (Talmud)."

List of 39 prohibited activities - includes Driving, but apparently having SEX is allowed!!!


We experienced the inconvenience of Sabbath. Seriously, nobody is working!!! We missed the last bus to the West Bank Border at 3pm, and the road was quite empty at Friday 3pm++. In the end, we had to take a cab (charged at much higher rate) to the Border. 

I asked the Cabdriver (A Muslim) if he likes Sabbath. He grinned and replied "Yes!!". I am sure about that. 

And thanks to the Sabbath, there was no public bus from Jerusalem to Eilat (Border town to Egypt & Jordan), hence, we ended up changing our itinerary and decided to stay another day in Israel (Tel Aviv), which was a good move.

Well, I was quite happy to experience Sabbath despite the inconvenience, as it is uniquely Jerusalem. =)




To Holyland, anybody?



Signboard at the Border


Huge Wall separating Israel from the West Bank (Palestine)

You can read the controversy over this Huge Wall: 

"Opponents claim the barrier is an illegal attempt to annex Palestinian land under the guise of security,[114] violates international law,[115] has the intent or effect to pre-empt final status negotiations,[116] and severely restricts Palestinians who live nearby, particularly their ability to travel freely within the West Bank and to access work in Israel, thereby undermining their economy.[117] According to a 2007 World Bank report, the Israeli occupation of the West Bank has destroyed the Palestinian economy, in violation of the 2005 Agreement on Movement and Access. All major roads (with a total length of 700 km) are basically off-limits to Palestinians, making it impossible to do normal business. Economic recovery would reduce Palestinian dependence on international aid by one billion dollars per year.[118]"








"The West Bank (Arabicالضفة الغربية‎, aḍ-Ḍiffä l-ĠarbīyäHebrewהגדה המערבית‎, HaGadah HaMa'aravit)[1] is a landlocked territory[2]and is the eastern part of the Palestinian territories.

Since 1967, most of the West Bank has been under Israeli military occupation as what it calls the Judea and Samaria Area. A smaller part of the West Bank is administered by the Israeli civilian authorities as part of Jerusalem District.

The West Bank was taken control of by Israel, during the Six-Day War in June, 1967. With the exception of East Jerusalem and the former Israeli - Jordanian no man's land, the West Bank was not annexed by Israel. Most of the residents areArabs, although a large number of Israeli settlements have been built in the region since 1967. Close to 500,000 Israelis live in the West Bank settlements, annexed East Jerusalem and the former Israeli - Jordanian no man's land areas.

The Palestinian Authority believes that the West Bank ought to be a part of their sovereign nation, and that the presence of Israeli military control is a violation of their right to Palestinian Authority rule. The United Nations calls the West Bank and Gaza Strip Israeli-occupied (see Israeli-occupied territories). The United States State Department also refers to the territories as occupied.[72][73][74] Many Israelis and their supporters prefer the term disputed territories, because they claim part of the territory for themselves, and state the land has not, in 2000 years, been sovereign."

My first impression of West Bank (Palestine) - Third World Country.
A stark contrast to Jerusalem, which is separated by a Wall - not just a physical one.


We took a cab at the border to Church of Nativity (Birth Place of Jesus Christ). We haggled on the price, and the cab driver kept suggesting other churches around Bethlehem, but we declined his offer. When he saw a long traffic jam to Church of Nativity on the hill (since it was X'mas Eve & lotsa people were going there), he dropped us a dark basement of a building and told us to take a lift and walk a short distance, and we would reach our destination. Naturally, we did not believe him. I went down the cab to ask the locals, but none of them understood me. Fortunately, I saw a tourist who informed that I could take the lift to the top of the building and walk to Church of Nativity. And inevitably, the cabdriver was upset that we did not trust him and the whole incident ended bitterly.

On the hindsight, my distrust stemmed from my preconceived idea of Palestinians. All the news about Palestinians were negative - suicide bombing, terrorism, wars, guns etc.... My view and perception was totally influenced by the news created by Western Media, which could be biased. I regretted not trusting the cabdriver, however, anybody in our position would behave the same way as well. 


Current President, Palestinian Flag, the late Yasser Arafat, (Nobel peace prize winner)

Interestingly, they use Israeli Shekel in Palestine. 


Church of Nativity during X'mas Eve

"The Church of the Nativityin Bethlehem is one of the oldest continuously operating churches in the world. The structure is built over the cave that tradition marks as the birthplace of Jesus of Nazareth, and thus it is considered sacred by Christians."

Where is the best place in the world to spend New Year's Eve?
New York's Time Square Countdown (Checked)

Where is the best place in the world to spend Christmas Eve?
Bethlehem, Birth Place of Jesus Christ. (Checked)

=) 

Unforunately, we could not get into the Church for service, as it was too crowded. 

Stage set up in front of the Church of Nativity.
Surprisingly, the crowd was made up predominantly by Muslim Palestinians. 

There were performances like singing Christmas Carols from church groups from US & other places. There were Gospel preaching for the majority-muslim crowd as well as live-telecast from the service in the Church of Nativity. 




A good-looking Palestinian Youths.

The Palestinians are well-mannered and friendly. It was unfortunate that many people in the world (including myself previously) have negative impression of Palestinians because of the negative news reports.  



Flying of the Kongming Lantern (Sky Lantern)
A magical moment that I want to remember forever.

A few Palestinians was trying to fly the sky lantern. It was winter in Bethlehem, so it won't be easy to heat up the air in the lantern. The sky lantern was pushed into the air and descended slowly back into the crowd. The crowds around them (including myself) were waiting in anticipation. The magical moment came when the Sky lantern was finally airborne and flew away.

Everybody was delighted and happy. I looked around me and saw the smiles on everybody's face. It was a magical moment. In the smile, there was no segregation or separation, there was no difference between  Christian or Muslim, there was no racial difference, there was no nationality and no labeling of people. There is only one thing - smiling in unity. We are the same. We are all Human Beings. 

Isn't that the essence of Christmas?
Rejoicing in peace as a united Human Race.
If only everybody experiences this, there will be no war.



HY making local friends.
=)



The President of the Palestinian National Authority also came to Bethlehem. 

This is my first time seeing a President of another Country (disputed country).
=)




Celebration of X'mas on the street


Lotsa Palestinian People
This shows that X'mas has evolved, and people from different religions rejoice and celebrate in peace.

Below is video clip that a Christian Preacher was preaching to a Muslim Crowd, but was interrupted by the Muslim Calling for Prayer. Interesting!!




Founder and Student leader from International Palestinian Youth League.

"The International Palestinian Youth League (IPYL) is an independent non-governmental, non partisan, non religious secular organisation based in Hebron. IPYL was founded in May 1997 by a cross-section of Palestinian youth activists. IPYL’s mission is to empower youth aged 15-35 against social, economical, and political challenges in Palestinian society, which the Israeli occupation has aggravated. As a result of this, Palestinian youth have been denied educational opportunities, sites for cultural activities, and community development resources. IPYL woks on creating core of young community leaders who will act as active citizens taking their responsibilities towards the community development and needs."

It is great to know passionate people who are fighting for a worthy cause. And the founder did mention that the Jews had a difficult time in WWII and was a victim of the Holocaust, however, Jews are not the only victims in the world. 


Palestinian Passport

How to get to Palestine?
"There are no borders controlled by the Palestinians, since Palestine is occupied by the Israelis and they control all our borders, lands, air and water. So, for you to come to Palestine you should see and deal with the Israeli army and police.


This is why we can not pick you up from airport.   So the visa will be an Israeli one, as we are not yet a recognized country with sovereignty. If you are arriving not through Ben Gurion (Tel Aviv) airport (for example, Eilat airport, land crossing points: Jordan or Egypt), please let us know, since the directions listed below are just for those arriving at Tel Aviv Airport."

It was great to see the situation from the other side of the fence.

The night before, I was in Jerusalem watching a "concert" supporting the building of settlement in East Jerusalem. In the morning, I was in the Holocaust museum understanding WWII and the fate of the Jews, as well as the reason for the establishment of an Israel state. In the evening, I was talking to Palestinian Youth activist about the problems and challenges faced by Palestine.

What a contrast! 
It good to get a more balanced view of places and events.



Palestinian Hospitality. =)

A hospitable businessman invited us for a coffee, after we had chatted with him at his shop. He also invited his extended family to join in. It was a wonderful and unexpected experience to make friends with the locals. He opened red wine and his nephew barbecued chicken wings. He invited us to stay, unfortunately, we had to get back to Jerusalem. At around 2am, they drove us to the border and arranged a transport from the border back to the Old City in Jerusalem. 

We were very grateful and thankful for their hospitality.
That's one of the highlights of the trip - Meeting nice locals!!!  
I love backpacking!!!




Christian, Jewish, Muslim
(ignore the Japan flag)

I was grateful to have the opportunity to have a glimpse of the multi-faceted problems of Israel and Palestine from both perspectives. Prior to the trip, I admit that my impression of Palestinians had been really bad - terrorism, suicide bombers, extremist, fundamentalist etc... I was so wrong.  

May be I only met the nice people, and may be it is not a good representation of the whole demographics, as the sample size is small. But at least, from my brief observation of the Palestinians on the street, they are wonderful people.

That's a great thing about backpacking and traveling. 
It breaks your stereotypical impression of people.
I am grateful and thankful.